TUBE RIDE!

 

A REAL TUBE RIDE!

      I got in tube yesterday and I made it out alive.  I think that might be the first time ever.  I have been in the tube tons of times, but it always closes out on me.   I was SUP Surfing at H-Bay, with nobody around, no leash, air temp 46 degrees and just about dark.  I am really Crazy stupid!!!  The waves were glassy, about head high and peeling left.   On the wave before I had to swim in cause I got smashed trying to hit the lip, and of course the board washed all the way in.  I was going to pack it in after that, but I needed one more ride, it was too nice! So I paddled back out, right away a big big big set was right in front of me and I could tell it was turning a little more left. I caught the 2 wave, went down the face, got some good speed and turned left.  It was so glassy smooth, but it was walling up really really fast.  At this point I was in too deep I had to try to make it to the end which was about 15 yards away. So I crouched down, grinded my teeth and felt the board really accelerate. This wave was like a brick shit house.  Then in a split second I saw it! A tube of water, I was in! The barrel door was right at the front of my board. I could feel the top of the barrel hit the very top of my head. At that point I was like sweet, but I have been here before, time to get smashed.  I think I might have even closed my eyes for a split second awaiting destruction. Except this time it didn’t happened. It was like that barrel just froze, and I shot right out thru it, and stood up and was still alive. Surfed right in to the beach and started to walk home like nothing happened. It wasn’t till about half way home that I realized what I just did.  Holy Shit! I got in the barrel and made it out. I have never done that before. Sweeeeeeettttt.  My stoke meter is thru the roof today.  Every time I think about that 2 second moment it seems like it was a minute ride. Just amazing!   Hit The Lip! And get barreled. 

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s