Well 2014 October Big wave season on Da reef started off with two gnarly days which stirred up every condition possible. It rained buckets, hailed, lightning, had massive wind shifts & gusts, huge waves(8-10ft at Buoy), frigid air temps, and then also had glassy, sunny, green/blue waves and rainbows. If you can imagine of it, it happened. It’s usually so nice and perfect on Da reef all the time that you forget what a not so perfect day is like.
I also forget how hard it is to surf Da Reef. It’s a feat in itself just to get out there and come back. You really have to be a true warrior to take it on, especially when it gets big and pissed off like a raging bull. At any moment it can beat you down and spit you out. It will break your board, boat, mast, rig, kite, body and your will. Plus on top of that, you may end up doing a mile walk of shame home. Yes you have to be a true warrior to get off your back and summon up the courage to charge it again and again after constantly getting beat up! If you choose to persevere, eventually the reef will reward you by laying down and letting you have a ride; and that ride that will be burned into your memory for days, months or maybe even years. It’s just those few “seconds” out of a whole day of getting your butt kicked that keeps you coming back time and time again to this special place we call “Da Reef.”